Ian McNulty: Here's a first look inside Jolie, a lovely ‘loungerie’ in downtown New Orleans

What's a loungerie? That’s been a question since we learned just such a thing was taking shape in downtown New Orleans at the new Jolie, which opened in December.

The short answer is a lounge crossed with a brasserie, a place where cocktails are the focus, alongside a well-composed menu that can furnish gorgeous drinking food but can also go much further.

While the Warehouse District has many upscale restaurants for cocktails and some late-night options, Jolie is working the territory in between. Andrew Duncan, one of Jolie's managing partners, landed on the loungerie term as a way to mark that niche.

A space transformed

The concept comes into focus when you see it, and stepping through the door at Jolie can feel like a major reveal.

The old warehouse building, formerly home to World of Beer, gives little away from the street. Inside the long room is a feast of stylish flair and detail, one filled with cocktails and also performances that range from live music to circus arts (more on that below).

Between the massive old timbers still bracing the space, Jolie presents a few distinct areas between the large bar, an elevated platform for deeply set booths that curve almost completely into a circle and a mix of tables and sofas with a salon feel.

At the bar

Manager Kiah Darion (from Bar Marilou and the Hotel Saint Vincent prior) and beverage director Will Lester have an extensive cocktail menu that is by turns classic and modern, elegant and playful.

The mezcal-based cocktail called smoke pulls off a beguiling trick with a strong aroma of smoke, but also a lighter, cleaner finish.

Another called air stands like a scotch-based whiskey sour with a whip of salted foam capping a blend of citrusy, umami flavors.

The house take on the French 75 comes with a suspicious little baggie filled with nothing more illicit than Pop Rocks that crackle between the bubbles.

On the menu

Jolie’s kitchen is led by chef de cuisine Adrian Martinez and sous chef Indigo Martin. The idea here is to take French standards and blend influences and flavors around the world.

One dish that demonstrates this in striking fashion is the escargot with curry butter with cilantro and mint, which adds both spice and a brighter, lighter feel to escargot.

The foie gras toast makes for a perfect bite of food, or maybe two bites. It’s whipped for an aerated burst of flavor with the essence of foie gras but in lighter form, with the toasty tang of sourdough rounds underneath.

The beef carpaccio appears to be painted on the plate in vanishing-thin slices, augmented flavors that dance across the palate, especially the cured egg yolk and smoked sea salt.

The yellowfin tuna crudo has the same effect, but with ocean freshness sparked up by chile crunch.

The menu has a burger, steak frites and a version of poutine made with duck for heartier fare, and there's an oyster mushroom "steak" as a vegan dish.

Special nights

Jolie has a DJ on Fridays and Saturdays and live bands on Thursdays.

On the second Wednesday of the month, Jolie hosts Cirque de Jolie, a special night with what the venue calls "otherworldly performers," like sword swallowers and aerialists, and specials from the kitchen and bar.

Also beginning in January, Jolie will have a weekly happy hour on Thursday dubbed cinq à sept (French for five to seven), inspired by the happy hour tradition in Montreal by that name.

Duncan also has restaurants in Montreal. Originally from Newcastle, England, he's lived in New Orleans for a decade and previously ran Gravier Social Club, a membership club in downtown New Orleans.

He’s joined as managing partners in Jolie by fellow Brits Chris and Mark Beardon of the Dallas-based SBBC Hospitum, a hospitality group with a portfolio of eight bars, clubs and restaurants in Texas.

Other local partners in Jolie are the Crescent Hospitality Krewe, the company behind the Hell’s Gala Halloween ball. One of those partners is Jonathan Brisbi, of the Evangeline Lounge in Mid-City and Hog Alley Lounge in Old Metairie.

Jolie

324 Julia St., (504) 766-7233

Wed.-Mon. (closed Tue.) 4 p.m.-midnight (2 a.m. Fri., Sat.)

Kitchen serves til 10 p.m.

Reservations at jolie-nola.com.

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