While there won't be a shack full of soups on Magazine Street this winter, a beloved local caterer is bringing New England-style seafood to New Orleans inside the stand where the Imperial Woodpecker Sno-Balls operates in the summer.
In years past, the sno-ball stand owner, Neesa Weaver, has allowed the Soup Garden to take over the stand in the off-months. But this year, Nell Shell is making its inaugural run as a pop-up in the Garden District.
The new concept comes from Mary Nell and her partner Chris Otten, who wanted to pull from their time spent up in the northeast part of the country and highlight the Gulf Coast's seafood.
"This is a very, very quintessential New England seafood shack-type structure, so that's the vibe we're going for," Nell said.
Connecticut-style lobster roll from Nell Shell.
"The lobsters are coming from Maine, but we're constantly focused on trying to find local vendors to work with as well," Otten said. "I think when people come here, they'll see that they'll see all the work that's gone into it."
Otten and Nell have eaten a lot of lobster rolls in their lifetimes, so they are excited to bring Connecticut- and Maine-style rolls to New Orleans. Nell also offers her shrimp orzo pasta salad, a favorite among her Nell's Catering clients, to the shack. And for the soup-loving fans of New Orleans, a corn crab bisque has been a hit since opening.
A further look at the menu
After ordering a warm lobster roll, the glorious butter smell begins wafting through the air. While I love the sweet and simple taste of the Connecticut-style roll, I was envious of the man sitting beside me devouring his chilled, Maine-style roll.
Shrimp orzo pasta salad from Nell Shell.
When I finally moved on to the orzo pasta salad, I understood why Nell's clients go crazy for it. The crisp flavors of dill and Old Bay mix beautifully with the plump Gulf shrimp. It was hard for me to stop eating the dish to try the other items I ordered.
The last item I got was the sea-cuterie board, which centers on a smoked yellowfin tuna dip. But what I fell in love with was the anchovy butter. After realizing I was scooping straight butter, I started to build little toasts with the pieces of baguette, butter, fish dip, pickled onions and pickled jalapeños with gherkins on the side.
While set up as a grab-and-go location primarily, I am glad there is some seating nearby because the next time I stop by the Nell Shell, I will be tempted to dive into the food before it can make it home. I might even stop across the street and grab a bottle of wine from Really Really Nice Wines to go with it.
Nell Shell's backstory
Nell and Otten met while attending Loyola Law School, while Nell worked at New Orleans eateries and developed a passion for cooking.
Nell practiced law but decided it was time to open a catering business in 2014.
Sea-cuterie from Nell Shell including the smoked yellowfin tuna dip, herbed butter, gherkins, and pickled onions and jalapenos.
"I was probably one of the first people telling her, 'Maybe you should quit law and do this full time.' She eventually did. And then told me I needed to quit law, and I wasn't quite there yet," Otten shared.
In 2020, Nell bought a 1962 Shasta Airflyte and converted it into a mobile food unit that resembled a tin can, which brought about the name Nell Shell.
While the Shasta hasn't hit the streets, Nell couldn't pass up the opportunity to get Nell Shell going after her friend, Weaver, called her in August about the takeover. Otten joined the venture this year, and together, Nell and Otten opened Nell Shell in December.
"That plan is to pop up here through February and then roll out the trailer, which is a mobile food situation that can go to, you know, breweries, parties, whatever," Nell said.
While Nell Shell plans to close the Magazine location on Feb. 28, Weaver said that if Nell wants to return in the winter, there will be a space for her.
3511 Magazine St.
Wednesday to Sunday 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.
